Selfish

I started surfing just over three years ago. Since then almost everything takes a back seat to bumps in the surf forecast. I would say my wife and son are more important than my new surfing interest, but Brooke sometimes looks unconvinced when I try to stress this. My friend, and chief enabler, Ben, is the one who made me stop talking about learning to surf “one day” and actually made it happen. This year we made a pilgrimage to Surf Simply, a surf coaching resort whose online tutorials had helped us learn the little we do know. The teaching methodology there is perfect and shy of necessary for progressing your surfing when you aren’t 16, you have a job, a family, and live in a place where you expect to only have enough wave energy to surf once a month. Maybe twice. And the idea of surfing twice a day for a week in 80 degree waters and 80 degree air was enough to abandon my wife and 3-year-old in February for two weeks. Although, you have to know I cut the trip short. It never occurred to me I could get tired of surfing. Maybe it was the homesickness, but even paradise gets old after a week when you don’t have your family with you. I came back after a modest 12 days and found no divorce papers, and my things weren’t on the lawn. Brooke even said I could go again next year. But now she gets to plan her own getaway. Although I told her we can’t afford it. I already spent that money. I didn’t take many pictures in Costa Rica, but here’s the few that I did.